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The Ultralight
Backpacking Site |
Survival Food - Part Three
(Adapted from the U.S. Army Survival
Manual)
Squirrel Pole

A squirrel pole is a long pole placed against
a tree in an area showing a lot of squirrel activity (Figure
8-8). Place several wire nooses along the top and sides of the
pole so that a squirrel trying to go up or down the pole will
have to pass through one or more of them. Position the nooses
(5 to 6 centimeters in diameter) about 2.5 centimeters off the
pole. Place the top and bottom wire nooses 45 centimeters from
the top and bottom of the pole to prevent the squirrel from getting
its feet on a solid surface. If this happens, the squirrel will
chew through the wire. Squirrels are naturally curious. After
an initial period of caution, they will try to go up or down
the pole and will get caught in a noose. The struggling animal
will soon fall from the pole and strangle. Other squirrels will
soon follow and, in this way, you can catch several squirrels.
You can emplace multiple poles to increase the catch.
Ojibwa Bird Pole

An Ojibwa bird pole is a snare used by
native Americans for centuries (Figure 8-9). To be effective,
place it in a relatively open area away from tall trees. For
best results, pick a spot near feeding areas, dusting areas,
or watering holes. Cut a pole 1.8 to 2.1 meters long and trim
away all limbs and foliage. Do not use resinous wood such as
pine. Sharpen the upper end to a point, then drill a small diameter
hole 5 to 7.5 centimeters down from the top. Cut a small stick
10 to 15 centimeters long and shape one end so that it will almost
fit into the hole. This is the perch.
Plant the long pole in the ground with
the pointed end up. Tie a small weight, about equal to the weight
of the targeted species, to a length of cordage. Pass the free
end of the cordage through the hole, and tie a slip noose that
covers the perch. Tie a single overhand knot in the cordage and
place the perch against the hole. Allow the cordage to slip through
the hole until the overhand knot rests against the pole and the
top of the perch. The tension of the overhand knot against the
pole and perch will hold the perch in position. Spread the noose
over the perch, ensuring it covers the perch and drapes over
on both sides.
Most birds prefer to rest on something
above ground and will land on the perch. As soon as the bird
lands, the perch will fall, releasing the over-hand knot and
allowing the weight to drop. The noose will tighten around the
birds feet, capturing it. If the weight is too heavy, it
will cut the birds feet off, allowing it to escape.
Noosing Wand
A noose stick or "noosing wand"
is useful for capturing roosting birds or small mammals. It requires
a patient operator. This wand is more a weapon than a trap. It
consists of a pole (as long as you can effectively handle) with
a slip noose of wire or stiff cordage at the small end. To catch
an animal, you slip the noose over the neck of a roosting bird
and pull it tight. You can also place it over a den hole and
hide in a nearby blind. When the animal emerges from the den,
you jerk the pole to tighten the noose and thus capture the animal.
Carry a stout club to kill the prey.
Figure 4 Deadfall

The figure 4 is a trigger used to drop
a weight onto a prey and crush it (Figure 8-12). The type of
weight used may vary, but it should be heavy enough to kill or
incapacitate the prey immediately. Construct the figure 4 using
three notched sticks. These notches hold the sticks together
in a figure 4 pattern when under tension. Practice making this
trigger before-hand; it requires close tolerances and precise
angles in its construction.
Paiute Deadfall

The Paiute deadfall is similar to the figure
4 but uses a piece of cordage and a catch stick (Figure 8-13).
It has the advantage of being easier to set than the figure 4.
Tie one end of a piece of cordage to the lower end of the diagonal
stick. Tie the other end of the cordage to another stick about
5 centimeters long. This 5-centimeter stick is the catch stick.
Bring the cord halfway around the vertical stick with the catch stick at a 90-degree angle.
Place the bait stick with one end against the drop weight, or
a peg driven into the ground, and the other against the catch
stick. When a prey disturbs the bait stick, it falls free, releasing
the catch stick. As the diagonal stick flies up, the weight falls,
crushing the prey.
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Steve's Notes: Practice these traps before you are
in a survival situation. You'll find that you can make them twice
as fast the second or third time. Speed is important, because
you'll usually need more than one trap, due to their inefficiency. |
Continued here: Survival
Food - Part Four.
Back to the Wilderness
Survival Guide.
The Ultralight
Backpacking Site | Survival Food - Part Three |